What makes a good beer? Is it one that follows the style guidelines to the letter? Can a beer be bad if it hits every checkmark in the BJCP or Brewers Association style books? Is being a good beer something more? Something ineffable? Can a slavish devotion to style a detriment?
The Baltika Russian Imperial Stout hits all the markers of what a Russian Imperial Stout should be.
Color: Dark brown with a slight opacity/chill haze. Check
Aroma: Roasted with slight dark fruit and low floral hops. Check
Taste: Malt bitterness, a taste of alcohol, and dark fruit. Check
Mouthfeel: Chewy and medium to heavy mouthfeel. Check
Here is the problem. While it hits all the check marks it is still not a good beer. There is no subtlety or art to the beer. This is a brusk, harsh beer. Russian Imperial Stouts should be roasty and forceful, but here it blows past roasty into charred. Combined with the very noticeable alcohol flavor and warmth, it makes this beer borderline undrinkable. I know a baker who loves using this beer in her cakes and cookies. The over the top nature of the malt flavor combined with the distinct alcohol presence makes this a good beer for using in cooking and a bad beer for everyday drinking.
For the ABV, this beer is a ridiculous value. You will find it for less than $4 almost everywhere and it clocks in at 10% ABV. This may be the sole reason for its existence.